The rise of the Assyrtikos from the Islands

Santorini and Assyrtiko are verses which are often sung about Greek wine, both within and outside Greece. However, Eric Asimov, the respected wine journalist, recently wrote in the New York Times that in the USA:  “....most people, including many who consider themselves wine lovers, still regard Assyrtiko as something exotic, perhaps even alien.” (New York Times, 2 August 2018). This statement highlights the extent to which the variety has been successful, which is remarkable, but there are limitations. In any case, Santorini and Assyrtiko have made Greece recognized abroad. The ancient, dry farmed, own-rooted vines, the distinctive training system (the well-known 'kouloura' or 'kalathi'), and the volcanic soils form an irresistible combination.

But is it the variety or the island which takes precedence over the other? That could be a first question to pose. Would it be correct to isolate the variety from its place, particularly if one is talking about 'terroir wines' rather than generic wines? I think not. Nevertheless, for the sake of debate, let us examine these two separately. In this case, I have absolutely no doubt in my mind that Santorini wines have greatly benefited from the strong brand name of the island of Santorini.