Desert Island Wines: Agrapart Venus 2012
Pascal Agrapart has established himself as one of the grandest names of the Côte des Blancs after taking over his family estate in Avize in 1984. He works the vineyards in a sustainable way according to the lunar phases. His wines are, as stated on the back labels, a labour of soils and a song of nature.
Venus, a single parcel cuvée from the 0.3 ha La Fosse, has been named after the horse that used to plow the parcel planted in 1959. It is a crystalline expression of the chalky soils. 2012 has stayed six years with the lees and was disgorged on Jan 2019.
On the nose, it is restrained with fresh apple, minerals, and hazelnuts. Reserved and pure with lemon blossom nuances. It opens up gradually with time. A slight reduction is noted. Austere in a way on the palate, citrus-driven, lean and mineral in style. Opens up with seductive richness on the long finish. Steely, like a sword, made for the long run.