More Rozaki by Volacus winery– The taste of summer

My previous post on Tsikrikonis’ Rozaki was focused on a variety that is seldom used to make wine, and this week I happened to taste another example from a different winery. This time it was made in a rosé, stylish version, by the Volacus winery from the magnificent island of Tinos. 

I was lucky to be offered two vintages; 2018, the maiden vintage which produced 900 bottles, and 2019, a capricious vintage (according to producer Michalis Kondizas) that gave just 500. The grapes are sourced from a single vineyard, which boasts 60+-year-old own-rooted vines. “These are crawling vines that look very impressive,” says Michalis Kontizas owner/producer of the artisanal winery that makes a few thousand bottles. The yields are very low, usually less than 30 hl/ha, somewhat uncommon for what is often a productive variety. 

2019 is fresh, lightly aromatic reminiscent of cranberries and roses. Summer in a glass. Its pale onion skin colour is the result of 15 days of skin contact. “2019 has 12% abv, which I think suits the variety and our style well”, continues Kontizas pointing out that Rozaki is a white variety that becomes pink-skinned at around 12% abv. On the palate, it is oily, but still very fresh with a salty complexity. 

2018 is at the other end. Deeper in colour, with 24 hrs on the skins and harvested riper. Alcohol is 13.8% abv, and it feels fuller and more candied, full of strawberry jam aromas. 

What is the future for Rozaki, might be a question to pose. “Well, who knows? On my part, I want to experiment with both Rozaki and Potamisi that are local Aegean varieties and see where that leads us. For the moment, I am happy with its progress and the uncomplicated deliciousness the variety may offer”, stated Kontizas. 

Summarizing Rozaki, I would say it is immediately pleasurable and I would consider it a wine of innocence. On the one hand, it is fruity and round and on the other oily and textural. Perfect for my summer gemista.