Over the last ten years the wine scene in Cyprus has evolved. After the recent financial crisis Cyprus seems to be back on track and its wine industry seems ready to bloom, showing promise and high expectations. Well, Cyprus is a blessed land. First of all, phylloxera vastatrix never affected its vineyards, so the vines are ungrafted with an average age vine close to 50-60 years. These vineyards are among the highest in terms of altitude in Europe reaching 1500 meters for the vineyards of Kyperounda winery. And yes we are talking about bush vines (although new plantations may be wire trained) and dry farming. Heaven!
Some more research and training and Cyprus will tick most of the boxes. Not that long way to go as Cyprus winemakers are keeping up the beat!
Last month, I was lucky enough to pay a visit to the island and to participate in two tastings one in Paralimni and another in Paphos coupled with some visits to wineries and vineyards with the company of George Kassianos leading personality and president of the Sommelier Association. The wine industry seems to be at a crossroad: somewhere between indigenous and international varieties with the pendulum slightly shifting towards the indigenous ones. Yet more producers need to be persuaded that this is the right path to take. And though I have tasted some pretty good examples of Merlots and Cabs, what are really the chances of getting noticed next to a fine Bordeaux blend? Not that many I am afraid...
And here comes the indigenous stars! The late Akis Zabartas, a pioneer winemaker during his career as Oenologist in KEO, re-discovered 12 native Cypriot grape varieties, which he recorded, planted and vinified. Among them the most important were: Maratheftiko, Lefkada, Promara, Spourtiko, Flouriko, Yiannoudi, Kanella, Omoio, Morokanella, Michalia and Maroucho. I am absolutely confident that the producers should primarily focus, research and invest in these varieties.
Xynisteri among the most planted varieties with 2.410 hectares out of a total out of approximateyly 15.000 seems to be the right white variety, boasting freshness, zesty acidity and delicacy. Primary fruit is expressed with stone fruit which is supported by vegetal or floral aromas. I did taste a couple delivering intense minerality as well that were delicious. Most producers include that in their line up and I have to say that there are also single vineyard versions and experiments with oak like the superb Petritis from Kyperounda winery. Wines are decently priced around 7-8 euros in the local market offering sensible pleasure yet many examples seek for more complexity.
Spourtiko and Promara are two more white varieties to catch your attention. Still not widely planted, these varieties are lean with light alcohol the former and layered, fuller and framed with some oak the latter. I was really impressed by a mini vertical of Promara in Vouni Panagia winery where 2014 showed a lovely Burgundian texture. But we will talk more about Promara in another post.
For red varieties things are bit more compelx. Mavro which is the most planted red variety and a basic ingredient for Commandaria lacks in tannins and colour. Maratheftiko is supposed to be the star but yields are irregular and is sparsely planted (183 ha). In the vineyard it suffers from very poor fruit so it is not a forgiving variety. It can be quite rustic as well. Yes, some wines did show promise but overall I was not totally convinced. Well, well, well some more tasting won't hurt…
However, Yiannudi, a re-discovered variety by Akis Zabartas, can roll the dice. Yiannudi gives tannic, structured and fuller in body wines but it is only planted in few hectares (for the moment) by Zambartas, KEO, Vouni Panayia and Tsiakkas.
That said, Cyprus seems keen to reach the next level. The key to success is to invest in the island's heritage, the indigenous varieties and everyone to work together, united as one voice. The latter may prove to be more difficult but I think it will worth a try.