The Muscat of Spinas 2016, from the Manousakis winery, came from trunkless bush vines of about 60 years of age; a nice introduction to our theme and a totally unexpected expression of Muscat. Less floral and more mild with fresh acidity and a complex finish (89/100). Then the champagne Nicolas Maillart Les Francs de Pied 2008 was unfortunately corked (what were the chances?), but the beloved Tarlant La Vigne d'Antan Blanc de Blancs began to put things in their right dimension (parcel that is own-rooted and partly pre-phylloxera.) Floral aromas, apple with nuts and a wonderful palate with very fine mousse that caresses and rewards. (93/100)
Moving on to the reds, Maurer Kadarka 1880 2013 from Serbia, planted in 1880 and in 1912, showed that it is a very well-crafted Kadarka, with quite sophisticated aromas and with good complexity; the aromas are reminiscent of chocolate and tea, as well as sage (88/100) while Elvio Cogno Pre-Phylloxera Barbera d'Alba 2013 had mainly aromas of balsamic and sweet perfume, but was not particularly impressive (89/100).
The first two wines from Greece were a Liatiko from Crete and an Agiorgitiko from Nemea. Crete has many pre-phylloxera vineyards since the insect appeared only in 1984 and Lyrakakis, Liatiko Angelis was concentrated and firm, characteristics not typically expressed by the variety (91/100). The second of the series was the La Tour Melas Vieilles Vignes Agiorgitiko 2013 from a vineyard of 0.45 ha showed wonderful violet scents, dense yet crunchy black fruit and such fruit concentration that it could be knifed through, without sacrificing its finesse (92/100).
The wines which followed were Italian with Etna in the foreground. Benanti Serra della Contessa Etna, 2009 demonstrated impeccable balance and was at its plateau of maturity (91/100). On the other hand, Pietradolce Archineri 2015 was particularly floral and savoury with strong tannins in the finish that were misleadingly soft at the beginning (92/100). The third wine from the Terre Nere Prephylloxera 2013 series was totally consistent with its reputation and showed amazing complexity with aromas of tobacco, violet and cherry that continued in the mouth, with an absolutely refined character which retained its power. (94/100)
Two more Greek were handed the baton. First of all, the unreleased Dalamara Vieilles Vignes 2016, which contains about 25% of the prephylloxyric vines of Paliokalias and showed sensational intensity and a nose expression that I can still smell - peppermint and particularly minerality (93/100); very similar on the palate with almost perfect tannins for a Xinomavro. The wine from Petrakopoulos Wines was also very promising; a Mavrodaphne from 60 years old vines in Palliki, Kefalonia. The wine has the name MOV Prephylloxera and will be released in about 1,000 bottles. Purple colour with dense black fruit, bacon and smoke on the nose. Full and rich in the mouth with high intensity and length indicates that Mavrodaphne is capable of greatness (92/100).
The last flight had a wine from Spain in the Toro area that came from vines over 140 years old, Terra d'Uro Seleccion 2008 (91/100), the incomparable Plaimont Vignes Prephylloxeriques 2012, made of Tannat (92/100), from the region of Saint-Mont, France and a rare Sherry, the Amondillado Conde de Aldama. The Aldama family sealed its best barrels with plaster to protect them from the phylloxera that reached Jerez in 1888. These barrels were opened in 1927 when the family began to have financial issues and had to sell. Until its takeover in 2001, the wines had been left untouched for over 120 years! A sherry that is pure liquid history and experience.
Wines from pre - phylloxera vines never cease to amaze me, so I look for them whenever I can and wherever I find myself. I am also amazed at the fact that there are many such vines in Greece that have not been given their rightful position yet.