It is impossible to write about all the wineries as that would be a very long read, so I will concentrate on two, both in the area of Sancerre: Domaine Vincent Gaudry and Domaine Vacheron. They are both biodynamic wineries, both are keen on expression of terroir and both make characterful wines, albeit quite different from each other.
Vincent Gaudry (pictured below) is considered one of the best kept secrets in Sancerre (Le Petite Chambre). A rising star in the ‘natural’ wine scene. A man who is tall, lean, and has a face that belongs to fairy tales. A face which is amazingly expressive and strange. He didn’t just talk about his wines, he gave a full performance. And he is obviously in love with what he does. He owns 8ha of land and farms biodynamically. About 90% is planted with Sauvignon Blanc and 10% with Pinot Noir. He follows the lunar calendar and he allows the vines to ‘guide’ him in their needs. He believes that it is imperative to express terroir in the wines. He makes ‘natural’ wines, so no yeasts, fining, filtration, ages on the lees and bottles “when the wine tells me it is ready”. There was something very metaphysical about his attitude. This idea that one is a part of nature, encompassed by it, and in an ongoing exchange with it, I found inspiring. I like people who are special. And he is special. Not only because of his looks, but because his wines are accurate, complex, elegant, but also lingering and impressive. We tasted:
Le Tournebride 2017 which comes from a mix of soils, caillotes, terres blanches and silex. Aged on its lees. Clean tasting, citrus and flinty.
Mélodie de Vieilles Vignes, pear, flowers of herbs and stone
Constellation du Scorpion 2017, smoky, mineral
A Mi-Chemin magnum 2017, delicate, flinty
Pour Vous, also from a magnum, woody
I left the Pinot Noir for the end. Vincengétorix 2017 beautiful red fruit, slightly peppery.
I left the winery (more like a shed in the backyard) with several thoughts about how you need to come across the right people in life so as to have another aspect revealed to you. To now, my relation to natural wines has been one of hesitation, because I hadn’t had much luck with most of what I’d tried. These wines opened a new door for me and proved that there can be another way.