A rare Oikonomou vertical 1998-2006, Mirabello and Antigone
By Yiannis Karakasis MW
So it happened. The Oikonomou wines are back on the market with a plethora of labels, and I'm not sure how many years have passed since we saw something of the sort. A total of 9 new wines have been released; 5 whites, one sweet and three reds. Two vintages of Assyrtiko, 2014 and 2015, the former in an oxidative style and the latter in a more mineral style. Amongst the new releases is the top cuvée Antigone from the 2004 vintage, which hits the 100 euro barrier. You can imagine the excitement this brought to lovers of the Oikonomou style and, of course, the Liatiko variety.
The occasion was celebrated with a rare vertical tasting of Oikonomou wines at the Delta Restaurant. It was organized by Oikonomou's distributor at large, Mr Vertigo covering the 1998, 1999, 2000, 2004 and 2006 vintages of Sitia plus two new wines, Mirabello and Antigone.
Here is a snapshot of the wines and some comments.
Mirabello 2015 (new label from the 2015 vintage - a blend of 40% Mandilari and 60% Liatiko) Immediate, vivacious in aromas with the grip of Mandilari supported by the ripeness of Liatiko. Superb! (****)
Sitia 2006 has an evolved nose rich in oxidative notes, classically perfumed, spicy and leathery, an array in line with the Oikonomou style. It drinks very well now, but I wouldn't cellar it further. (***+)
Sitia 2000, on the other hand, presents a more exciting nose with layers of red fruit, roses and wet leaves but is rather sweet on the palate missing the telltale savoury character. (****)
Sitia 2004 is in great shape, perfectly balanced and rewarding. Bursting with aromas on the nose, showing impeccable structure and texture on the palate. (****+)
Sitia 1999 and 1998, a scarce treat in full maturity. Both were lifted, especially the '99 (***+). The '98 resembled a Rioja from the '60s, old oak, spice and leather. With some time in the glass, it evolved beautifully. (****)
And then came Antigone. Smelling the wine transported me to Crete, sunsets, music, summertime, l'amour. If the nose of Sitia 2004 was a burst of aromas, the Antigone Liatiko is an orgy. (*****)