SuperNormal: Sant'or Krasis 2015
I have contemplated the question of value and wine for quite some time and it seems to me that wine has become an increasingly expensive affair, in the last few years. The prices of quite a few wines have rocketed so high that they have become more of an asset, a luxury brand or a trophy, rather than a drink made of the complex development of grape juice that is meant to be savoured, appreciated, shared and, most of all, enjoyed. And despite the fact that these wines are ultimately beautiful it makes you wonder if wine is losing (in some cases) its essence and perhaps its soul. Nowadays, as soon as a wine becomes well known and sought after, it takes little more than a few vintages before its price spirals upwards. And, I'm not only referring to the top regions of Burgundy, Bordeaux and the Rhone.
This column arose from my perception of an empty space. The legendary wines are often praised by all, but can be afforded by very few. Nevertheless, there didn't seem to be much written about wines that are distinctive, interesting, and sensibly priced. Suggestions of wines with character, that are actually an amazing bargain for their quality. So, here I will be focusing on beautiful, top value, wines that should not be missed. Of course, I had to set a reasonable upper limit; exactly the point of this column. The limit for wines from Greece is up to 15 euros and for those from around the world, up to 35 euros. Welcome to the world of super+normal.
Sant'or Krasis (Μavrodaphne) 2015
This a relatively new winery in the Peloponnese, in Santameri, Achaia founded by Panagiotis Dimitropolos. Certified organic and in the process of being certified biodynamic. Sant'Or wines are among the most fascinating efforts I have tasted lately. They express terroir with honesty and authenticity. The approach adheres to methods which are as natural as possible, among which are the spontaneous fermentation and the addition of very few sulphites. A total of just 30 - 40 mg / lt are added during vinification, in two doses. These are wines that may speak in a quiet voice, but make a strong statement.
The Sant'or Mavrodaphne Krasis 2015 is produced from own-rooted fifty-year old Mavrodaphne vines. Open-top oak fermentation, with 20 days extraction and manual pigeage. 6 months in old oak and another 6 months in the bottle. Medium ruby. Very, very perfumed with red cherries, roses, a touch of funk and garrigues notes. Gives the impression of whole bunch fermentation. Beautiful, layered, savoury and very distinctive on the palate, with a Pinot Noir personality. Burgundian and refined. Stunning effort, and wine.
Available at Greece&Grapes €13.90